Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
